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Anja recommends a stall called the Milano Tailor Shop, and I unfurl my old All Saints smocks (relics from the early days of that company, before they traded their baby elephant silhouette for a sleeker aesthetic) and one gauze top from a French designer whose name I won’t mention (he would be mad!). South Bund has other delights: racks of “cashmere” designer scarves in patterns that even Alessandro Michele in his wildest days couldn’t have come up with (nor would Gucci charge less than $20 for the results). There are also blankets in clear cases, the inspiration for this season’s Balenciaga flower bags, which cause Anja and I to talk briefly about cultural appropriation, desire, and queasiness. I quickly select some ersatz Liberty prints, and then hightail it to Uma Wang’s shop in the French Concession. Wang is the pride of the Chinese fashion scene: She shows in Paris; her clothes are sold at boutiques like IF and L’eclaireur. The French Concession, full of beautiful little cafes, boutiques, and shade-giving trees, is considered the loveliest part of town, and indeed its leafy streets evoke an Asian East Hampton, but a brief investigation reveals a darker story: This bastion of imperialism, a relic from uglier days, once forbade Chinese people from even sitting on a bench in its colonial confines. One of the best shops in Shanghai is Autumn Sonata, though I defy you to find it unless you have a Chinese friend to take you. And luckily, I do: Tasha Lui, a chic entrepreneur, explains that due to some incomprehensible zoning law, this multi-brand store (Paul Harnden! Vintage Comme!) is hidden from view down an alleyway. Shanghai is a city of profound contrasts: The alley, overhung with laundry, stands in the shadow of the Center Skyscraper, a Shanghai landmark and among the world’s tallest buildings. Photo: Courtesy of Dangling China / @dongliangchina Next up is Tasha’s own shop, Dongliang, so modish and cool it seems as if it was moved whole from the Faubourg Saint-Honoré.
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